by modre » Thu Jun 05, 2008 10:07 am
[quote="mark"]It's taken off more than I ever would have expected, and I really like the personality it's taken on.
I see no reason that we can't continue to build this site's membership, and add additional forums as necessary (ie, a technical forum, classifieds, whatever).
Mark...you got it...I'll add what I can.
Put it where you want it.
Spokes:
there's been gripes about spokes breaking...always the rear...after much hoopla and study I'm of the simple opinion it's because the old technology standards have been replaced with fool-proof alloy wheels...now everyone's dumbed down to expect no issues...all well and good...but spokes need set up, trued, and attended to until they seat and stay put...mine now has 6K and after a dozen spoke set-ups, now it's starting to stay put...never broke a spoke, and never an issue.
the reason the spokes break is some wear loose and over-stress the others...the drive torque twisting plus the road bumps is what over stresses them and why the rears are always the complaints...the answer is to have each spoke carry it's designed load...when they're each doing their expected job, the wheel is plenty strong and spokes don't break when the load is evenly distributed and none are overstressed.
spokes don't get set to a preset torque number...the main priority is having the wheel true both run-out (round) as well as side to side (wobble) true. when that's right, you tune the spokes by "plunking them with a small mallet, rod, wrench or similar...like a guitar string, and that pitch equates to tension thus strength....you don't want any high pitched bird chirp frequencies...that's too tight...while you're snugging up the duds, you're also looking for dangerously tight ones that may need a bit of relief.
the relative pitch you're after is a 4th musical interval...the first 2 notes in "here comes the bride"...if the wheel is true, and all spokes sing within that interval it's doing what it's supposed to...the trick (more picky than tedious) is to keep the true and bring the relative tension up to equal until the true suffers...it takes repeated attempts. a dial indicator is the right way, but you can set up a pointer and eyeball it...as long as you're within .020" it's good...the closer the better...a wheel trued within .005" is damn near perfect.
rightfully, you should let the air out before turning the nuts on the spokes...reason: the 30psi is friction against the flange, and if it's dry and been there a while it starts rubbing thru the inner tube, and if you get into that habit, eventually the tube gets a weak spot coupled to age and dry rot. you can spry WD40 and get away with a quicky fix, but the right way is to deflate and relieve the friction.
alloy wheel folk see this as tedious chore/task...I see it as love, involvement, and visceral...when it's set up right, there's not a damn thing wrong with spokes.
setting the track:
the rear wheel adjusting marks are not always accurate...set wrong, the rear of the bike will crab walk throwing the steering geometry slightly off center and you get the front shimmy when you want to show off with "look Ma, no hands". One reason the marks can be off is after welding cools it draws crooked...these are made at a quick assembly line pace...the final set-up is you. put the bike on the center stand or block it up vertical and secure.
get a 15' long piece of string and wrap the center point once around the rearmost of the rear tire so the long ends run up either side of the bike past the front tire...make sure the rear is even over the ends of the tread (don't have one in a groove...even side to side and even height from the ground/table surface)...depending on the tire width difference between front and back, with the front dead straight, space the front strings equi-distance to match the rear width dimension and take some time to set it all dead center and straight...when all's well, you can see where the parellel strings compare to the rear wheel angle...and if it differs from the adjustment marks...ignore the marks and follow the strings...specifically, you want to bring the front of the rear tire dead center within the parallel set up between the rear of the rear tire and the measured distance off the straight front tire.
the front has to be dead straight ahead, the strings have to be parallel and match the rear tire width with no interferrence, then the rear wheel gets adjusted as to chain tension as well as tracking...the sides of the front part of the rear tire get set to the strings...then the motorcycle runs straight down the road and the R and L curves are consistant.
chain tension:
on the center stand, drop the rear shocks off so you can raise the rear wheel to the apex of it's arc (chain at the tightest possible spot in the arc) then adjust the chain at the extreme limits needed...you should have about 3/8*-1/2" deflection so there's no possible way it can bind and become a stressed member...put the shocks back on and see why it has to be set looking somewhat loose...back together and at rest you should have 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" deflection...that seems loose to any experienced eye, but because of the requirements at the apex of the arc...it's right.
Lube:
lots of chain lube products available,..and I've tried lots of uninspiring pricey products over the years that make a mess and never saved or prolonged a chain beyond expected life, but I've been using plain old 80-90 gear lube with good results...cheap and effective...every couple hundred miles.