QUEBEC Summer Trip
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 3:50 pmQuebec Trip
It was a brilliant morning as we left Lake Hortonia, VT and headed toward Brandon on Rt.73 east. Our new 650 Suzuki V Strom had only 645 miles on the odometer and the Hepco and Becker luggage hadn’t arrived for our trip to Quebec. Instead we purchased a seal line waterproof bag and used a tail bag that we had. Rt. 73 had been newly paved so crossing over the Green Mountains was effortless. We made good time getting to the Canadian border in Newport. The money exchange rate was almost equal, but we didn’t care. We’ve been to Quebec and have loved its beauty and hospitality. We recommend stopping at the welcome center where you can pick up free info and maps, plus the always-welcome restroom.
The countryside of lower Quebec is a quilt of corn, rye, mustard, sweet clover and wildflowers. The roads were narrow and twisty, just the way we like them! The houses had neat yards and flower boxes that brimmed over with color and texture. In each town we saw impressive churches with silver metal roofs, which one can see for miles. As we approached the walled city of Quebec we felt like we were in Europe. Inside the walls of the city history speaks loud. The wall forms a 4.6 kilometer belt and atop the gates and ramparts one can read the evolution of the defense system of the last fortified city remaining north of Mexico City. Walking was a must after our seven-hour ride. The new seat was gifting us with monkey butts. (We have since replaced the factory seat with a comfy Sargent seat)
After checking into our hotel we headed out in search of refreshment. We found a little outdoor tavern that had plenty of local beer and a guitar player who sang in his lovely French language. Language was not a barrier, most speak English or Spanish but it is polite to know a few key phrases in French. After walking around we had dinner at a place called Le Buffet de L’Antiquaire. They serve traditional Quebecois food, no frills, inexpensive and a great place to people watch. Tito’s new favorite dessert became sugar pie, which is made with maple syrup of course. Walking back to the hotel we saw no shortage of street entertainers, musicians, acrobatics, mimes and artists. Don’t miss the gallery of Inuit Art, Brousseau. (www.sculpture.artinuit.ca) When we got back to the hotel room we discovered that the door lock didn’t work. Since we weren’t able to change rooms due to no vacancy, we decided to stay in for the rest of the night. The A-Team in French was enough to send us to sleep.
Up early the next morning for coffee and crepes. Packed the bike in the rain and headed up Rt.138 N. towards the town of Tadoussac. We quickly gained elevation as we entered a coniferous forest region. Signs for moose warned motorists of the danger of an encounter, I still wanted to see one. I could smell their heavy musk in the air. It rained heavy and the lightening bolts were unsettling! Tito’s skills on the new bike were tested. The skills he acquired from a track day in the rain gave him more confidence, as we zipped past cars in the passing lane. Unfortunately, some of the scenery was lost in the heavy fog, but occasionally a break in the rain would provide us with a glimpse of the estuary from the top of steep cliffs. Our next destination for the night was the little town of Tadoussac, which is located on the other side of the Saquenay River. We took a free of charge ferry across the river and while we were waiting we spotted a pod of Beluga whales rising out of the water. They feed on the rich resources that the valley runoff provides. It was truly the highlight of the trip! Thus, the obvious hotel for us to stay the night was La Beluga hotel on the main street in town.(www.le-beluga.qc.ca) The place was very clean and the door lock worked. After changing our wet clothes and hanging up everything else that was wet, we went out. The fog engulfed the town as we checked out the welcome center, the gift shops and then settled into a café for a few local beers. Not the types to drink and ride we found a place 1.5 miles out of town. There we dined on excellent seafood. Next morning we packed our gear and hurried out into the dry air for café, brioche and our first glimpse of the stunning landscape. WOW! It was breathtaking! We walked towards the bay and caught another look at the whales again. Anticipating a beautiful day ahead, we gassed up and headed up Rt.138 then took Rt.172, which follows the Saguenay River. We thought that the route itself would afford us views of this unique fjord but really the only way we could see the steep cliffs was to take smaller offshoot roads that lead down to the river. The only way back to Rt.172 was to return by the same roads we came in on. The Parc National du Saguenay protects this area, and it was gorgeous. I made Tito do a few u-turns so I could snap a picture or two. The bike was running great, but the seat was still hard as a rock. As we began losing elevation we entered the district of Chicoutimi and the city of Saguenay. There it was an interesting mix of natural beauty and urban sprawl.
Heading towards the shores of Lac Saint-Jean on Rt.169 W. Tito wanted to find a café on the lake, so we traveled through town after town in search of “the spot” to eat. Maybe we are both American capitalists because we both agreed that not one of those 7 towns we passed through took advantage of its lake front dinning potential. Almost two hours later we found a greasy spoon on Rt. 373 with no view. We then hooked back onto Rt.169 on the other side of the lake going east. Our plan was to go to Chambord and get a hotel room, but when we got there we still had 4 hours of riding left in our day so after talking with some folks on a V-Strom we decided to go on to La Tuque on Rt. 155. We followed the Bostonniais River and then the Saint–Maurice River, which is rumored to have some of the best salmon fishing in Quebec. It was a twisty, smooth and delightfully scenic road, all the while we watched for moose. When we drove into La Tuque the air reeked from its giant paper mill. Maybe the other side of town would smell better. Stopping in a rest area we spoke to a couple on a Gold Wing and asked them how far it was to Trios Rivieres. A hundred more miles of monkey butt was a better choice than inhaling that bad aroma all night. We cleared our lungs as we drove through the beautiful Parc National du Canada de la Mauricie on the way to Trois Rivieres.
At 8:30 we found a very nice hotel, unloaded and went out in search of snacks and beer. Canada’s quickie mart came through. Nuts, cookies, water, chips and cans of beer that took two hands to drink from. But before the glutton fest we had to wax the chain. Did I mention that the bike did not come with the center stand? My job consisted of propping the bike up on my hip with the back wheel off the ground while Tito quickly waxed the chain. I earned those cookies!
Instead of going to Montreal and then back to Vermont, we decided to go east to Maine. Taking Rt.55 S. out of town we stopped in Victoriaville at a local Honda dealer for chain wax. They were super friendly! We then took Rt.116 and then south on Rt.263 through Parc National Frontenac. The road was like a giant asphalt roller coaster, miles and miles of undulating hills and turns. Very fun! We then took Rt.108 N. We stopped for lunch in La Guadeloupe. Then we headed East on Rt.271 to St. Georges, then South on Rt. 173 towards the U.S frontier. Rt.173 becomes Rt.201 in Maine. We had no problem getting back into the U.S. but I discovered that I lost my favorite pair of sunglasses. Upon review, having a full-face helmet with a smoke shield fooled me into forgetting them at the café in La Guadeloupe. I bought a cheap pair at Moose River and now they are my new favorites.
The rugged country in Maine was a dramatic change. I was praying to the god of musky antlers to let us see a moose. We had traveled through so much countryside without one moose sighting. Well, I got my wish except it had been hit and was lying in a ditch.... dead. A local man had his small pickup truck backed up to it ready to stake his claim. The truck was clearly smaller than the Moose, so the only way that I could fathom him taking it home was to chop it up right there. Next time I make a wish I need to be more specific I guess. Following Rt.201 to Alt.201 to Rt. 43 into Farmington was relaxing. We found a Motel, freshened up and went out for dinner. Unfortunately, the name of the restaurant escapes me but they had the best tiny clams in garlic broth.
Our last day and we headed down Rt. 2 to New Hampshire. I’ve lived in New England my entire life and as hard as this is to believe, I have never been up Mount Washington! Well, we made the ascent to 6288 feet on that crystal clear day, but the top was windy and somewhat cloudy. So much better than I could have imagined! It was a little freaky descending, being on the outside and on dirt! It certainly made me forget about my saddle sores. The Kancamagus hwy is always beautiful and the traffic was moving right along. We took Rt.116 to Rt. 10 to Rt. 5 S. then 244 which hooked up to 113 to Chelsea then to 110 in Bethel where we stopped for fuel. Then over scenic Bethel Mountain Rd. and on to the Brandon Gap, and finally home.
Tito
Ton Up!
It was a brilliant morning as we left Lake Hortonia, VT and headed toward Brandon on Rt.73 east. Our new 650 Suzuki V Strom had only 645 miles on the odometer and the Hepco and Becker luggage hadn’t arrived for our trip to Quebec. Instead we purchased a seal line waterproof bag and used a tail bag that we had. Rt. 73 had been newly paved so crossing over the Green Mountains was effortless. We made good time getting to the Canadian border in Newport. The money exchange rate was almost equal, but we didn’t care. We’ve been to Quebec and have loved its beauty and hospitality. We recommend stopping at the welcome center where you can pick up free info and maps, plus the always-welcome restroom.
The countryside of lower Quebec is a quilt of corn, rye, mustard, sweet clover and wildflowers. The roads were narrow and twisty, just the way we like them! The houses had neat yards and flower boxes that brimmed over with color and texture. In each town we saw impressive churches with silver metal roofs, which one can see for miles. As we approached the walled city of Quebec we felt like we were in Europe. Inside the walls of the city history speaks loud. The wall forms a 4.6 kilometer belt and atop the gates and ramparts one can read the evolution of the defense system of the last fortified city remaining north of Mexico City. Walking was a must after our seven-hour ride. The new seat was gifting us with monkey butts. (We have since replaced the factory seat with a comfy Sargent seat)
After checking into our hotel we headed out in search of refreshment. We found a little outdoor tavern that had plenty of local beer and a guitar player who sang in his lovely French language. Language was not a barrier, most speak English or Spanish but it is polite to know a few key phrases in French. After walking around we had dinner at a place called Le Buffet de L’Antiquaire. They serve traditional Quebecois food, no frills, inexpensive and a great place to people watch. Tito’s new favorite dessert became sugar pie, which is made with maple syrup of course. Walking back to the hotel we saw no shortage of street entertainers, musicians, acrobatics, mimes and artists. Don’t miss the gallery of Inuit Art, Brousseau. (www.sculpture.artinuit.ca) When we got back to the hotel room we discovered that the door lock didn’t work. Since we weren’t able to change rooms due to no vacancy, we decided to stay in for the rest of the night. The A-Team in French was enough to send us to sleep.
Up early the next morning for coffee and crepes. Packed the bike in the rain and headed up Rt.138 N. towards the town of Tadoussac. We quickly gained elevation as we entered a coniferous forest region. Signs for moose warned motorists of the danger of an encounter, I still wanted to see one. I could smell their heavy musk in the air. It rained heavy and the lightening bolts were unsettling! Tito’s skills on the new bike were tested. The skills he acquired from a track day in the rain gave him more confidence, as we zipped past cars in the passing lane. Unfortunately, some of the scenery was lost in the heavy fog, but occasionally a break in the rain would provide us with a glimpse of the estuary from the top of steep cliffs. Our next destination for the night was the little town of Tadoussac, which is located on the other side of the Saquenay River. We took a free of charge ferry across the river and while we were waiting we spotted a pod of Beluga whales rising out of the water. They feed on the rich resources that the valley runoff provides. It was truly the highlight of the trip! Thus, the obvious hotel for us to stay the night was La Beluga hotel on the main street in town.(www.le-beluga.qc.ca) The place was very clean and the door lock worked. After changing our wet clothes and hanging up everything else that was wet, we went out. The fog engulfed the town as we checked out the welcome center, the gift shops and then settled into a café for a few local beers. Not the types to drink and ride we found a place 1.5 miles out of town. There we dined on excellent seafood. Next morning we packed our gear and hurried out into the dry air for café, brioche and our first glimpse of the stunning landscape. WOW! It was breathtaking! We walked towards the bay and caught another look at the whales again. Anticipating a beautiful day ahead, we gassed up and headed up Rt.138 then took Rt.172, which follows the Saguenay River. We thought that the route itself would afford us views of this unique fjord but really the only way we could see the steep cliffs was to take smaller offshoot roads that lead down to the river. The only way back to Rt.172 was to return by the same roads we came in on. The Parc National du Saguenay protects this area, and it was gorgeous. I made Tito do a few u-turns so I could snap a picture or two. The bike was running great, but the seat was still hard as a rock. As we began losing elevation we entered the district of Chicoutimi and the city of Saguenay. There it was an interesting mix of natural beauty and urban sprawl.
Heading towards the shores of Lac Saint-Jean on Rt.169 W. Tito wanted to find a café on the lake, so we traveled through town after town in search of “the spot” to eat. Maybe we are both American capitalists because we both agreed that not one of those 7 towns we passed through took advantage of its lake front dinning potential. Almost two hours later we found a greasy spoon on Rt. 373 with no view. We then hooked back onto Rt.169 on the other side of the lake going east. Our plan was to go to Chambord and get a hotel room, but when we got there we still had 4 hours of riding left in our day so after talking with some folks on a V-Strom we decided to go on to La Tuque on Rt. 155. We followed the Bostonniais River and then the Saint–Maurice River, which is rumored to have some of the best salmon fishing in Quebec. It was a twisty, smooth and delightfully scenic road, all the while we watched for moose. When we drove into La Tuque the air reeked from its giant paper mill. Maybe the other side of town would smell better. Stopping in a rest area we spoke to a couple on a Gold Wing and asked them how far it was to Trios Rivieres. A hundred more miles of monkey butt was a better choice than inhaling that bad aroma all night. We cleared our lungs as we drove through the beautiful Parc National du Canada de la Mauricie on the way to Trois Rivieres.
At 8:30 we found a very nice hotel, unloaded and went out in search of snacks and beer. Canada’s quickie mart came through. Nuts, cookies, water, chips and cans of beer that took two hands to drink from. But before the glutton fest we had to wax the chain. Did I mention that the bike did not come with the center stand? My job consisted of propping the bike up on my hip with the back wheel off the ground while Tito quickly waxed the chain. I earned those cookies!
Instead of going to Montreal and then back to Vermont, we decided to go east to Maine. Taking Rt.55 S. out of town we stopped in Victoriaville at a local Honda dealer for chain wax. They were super friendly! We then took Rt.116 and then south on Rt.263 through Parc National Frontenac. The road was like a giant asphalt roller coaster, miles and miles of undulating hills and turns. Very fun! We then took Rt.108 N. We stopped for lunch in La Guadeloupe. Then we headed East on Rt.271 to St. Georges, then South on Rt. 173 towards the U.S frontier. Rt.173 becomes Rt.201 in Maine. We had no problem getting back into the U.S. but I discovered that I lost my favorite pair of sunglasses. Upon review, having a full-face helmet with a smoke shield fooled me into forgetting them at the café in La Guadeloupe. I bought a cheap pair at Moose River and now they are my new favorites.
The rugged country in Maine was a dramatic change. I was praying to the god of musky antlers to let us see a moose. We had traveled through so much countryside without one moose sighting. Well, I got my wish except it had been hit and was lying in a ditch.... dead. A local man had his small pickup truck backed up to it ready to stake his claim. The truck was clearly smaller than the Moose, so the only way that I could fathom him taking it home was to chop it up right there. Next time I make a wish I need to be more specific I guess. Following Rt.201 to Alt.201 to Rt. 43 into Farmington was relaxing. We found a Motel, freshened up and went out for dinner. Unfortunately, the name of the restaurant escapes me but they had the best tiny clams in garlic broth.
Our last day and we headed down Rt. 2 to New Hampshire. I’ve lived in New England my entire life and as hard as this is to believe, I have never been up Mount Washington! Well, we made the ascent to 6288 feet on that crystal clear day, but the top was windy and somewhat cloudy. So much better than I could have imagined! It was a little freaky descending, being on the outside and on dirt! It certainly made me forget about my saddle sores. The Kancamagus hwy is always beautiful and the traffic was moving right along. We took Rt.116 to Rt. 10 to Rt. 5 S. then 244 which hooked up to 113 to Chelsea then to 110 in Bethel where we stopped for fuel. Then over scenic Bethel Mountain Rd. and on to the Brandon Gap, and finally home.
Tito
Ton Up!